{"id":160,"date":"2009-05-01T08:54:12","date_gmt":"2009-05-01T08:54:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/?p=160"},"modified":"2009-05-01T08:54:12","modified_gmt":"2009-05-01T08:54:12","slug":"bodgers-quartering-tool","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/archives\/160","title":{"rendered":"Bodger’s quartering tool"},"content":{"rendered":"

I’m always looking for rough-and-ready ways of getting things done, often so rough that I end up having to do it all again, but this one worked well.\u00a0 It’s only any good for locos with identical spoked wheels on all axles.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

All that’s needed is a bit of brass sheet thin enough to slide between the outside face of the chassis and the back of the wheels when the back-to-back is set correctly.\u00a0 Bend the sheet into a rough U shape as in the photo, file a couple of notches in the ‘wings’, then assemble the wheels on a muff in the chassis and wriggle the wings up behind the wheels so that the notches fit under the axles.\u00a0\u00a0Turn\u00a0the left-side wheel until the crankpin is facing downwards and drill a hole through the wing in the gap beween the spokes adjacent to the\u00a0crankpin.\u00a0 Push a bit of brass wire through the hole so that the wheel can’t rotate.\u00a0 Obviously the wire needs to be a tight fit between the spokes and in the hole.\u00a0 Now rotate the other wheel until its crankpin is at 90 degrees (ish) to the first one, and drill a hole between two spokes on that side.\u00a0 Pop a pin in and make sure both wheels are locked in position.<\/p>\n

Remove the pins and the tool, and you now have a template for positioning the wheels on the other axles.\u00a0\u00a0I found that the coupling rods dropped onto the crankpins first time, and only a hairsbreadth of adjustment was needed to relieve a minute tight spot.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The tool is a throw-away but it only takes fifteen minutes to make, involves no measuring or marking-out and costs nothing.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I’m always looking for rough-and-ready ways of getting things done, often so rough that I end up having to do it all again, but this one worked well.\u00a0 It’s only any good for locos with identical spoked wheels on all axles. All that’s needed is a bit of brass sheet thin enough to slide between […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-160","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-wealdenareagroup"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/160","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=160"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/160\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":161,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/160\/revisions\/161"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=160"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=160"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/festiveroad.net\/wealden2mmblog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=160"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}